Home on the Range: My First Malaysian Kampung Experience

This past Sunday, my coworker invited me to spend the day with her family at her husband’s grandmother’s farmhouse. The grandmother was hosting prayers for a blessed Ramadan (which would start a week later) and for a remembrance of the dead. Her family and village neighbors were all invited. With over 50 people in attendance, the food was catered and tents were erected to keep everyone out of the heat.

The Malay word for village is ‘kampung’.  Almost all Malays that I know have ties to at least one kampung (that either their mother or father grew up in), with some having ties to multiple village homes. My understanding is that until Malaysia became an independent nation, a majority of Malays still lived in villages: growing fruits and vegetables to survive – leading a similar life as their ancestors. After Malaysia became an independent nation, a controversial affirmative action plan was put in place whereby Malays were given preferential treatment in government positions and education opportunities (such as scholarships to study abroad), along with instituting hiring quotas for Malays in commercial enterprises. Putting criticism aside, these plans brought many Malays out from the kampungs into the urban cities. With university educations, Malays slowly increased their presence in all major commercial industries, which increased their affluence. As a result, many present-day Malays live in cities, only returning to their ancestral kampuns for Hari Rayas (which are the Islamic holidays of Eid – which mark the end of Ramadan and the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca), or when their grandparents have events, such as the prayer service I attended. 

As such, I felt truly honored to be invited to such an intimate family event. To get to the kampong we left KL after breakfast, around 8AM. Driving 2 hours south to the Southern-most peninsular state of Johor, the main sights included oil palm plantations and small towns. As we arrived, I instantly fell in love with the place.  Orchids were lovingly cultivated in a plethora of colors that surrounded the house. Fruits of all types (pineapple, star fruit, papaya, durian, rambutan, mangosteen, coconut and banana) were growing wild, almost as if a collection of tropical seeds were thrown into the wind, failing where they may. Behind the house chickens were roaming free among the oil pam trees (the grandmother had leased out the back portion of her land to an oil palm developer).  A fox trap was laid with bait near the chicken coup – apparently the chickens had experienced a fox problem recently, and day-old rice was left on the ground (although for the chickens, it appeared that mostly flies were enjoying the feast – as the chickens preferred the bugs by the oil palm trees).

After an initial tour, I sat down for the prayers.  Ladies in brightly-colored baju kurungs (which is the staple dress for Malay women, and consists of a brightly colored long sleeve tunic top with matching shirt) greeted me in the traditional way – interlocking my hands with their hands in a sideways clam position pulling our hands apart to touch our chests. Prayers were followed by food: curried chicken legs with rice, shrimp in a spicy sambal sauce (a Malay delicacy), and curried hearts of palm and bamboo for a vegetable side.   

After lunch, one of the uncles sat down to talk to me and my husband. The uncle was one of the most fascinating people I have ever met. He grew up on the very kampong with his two sisters. His mother was widowed with three young children in her early twenties. Not wanting to remarry (refusing multiple marriage proposals), his mother raised her children on her own; deciding to stay on the kampong even after her children had grown up and moved to the city.  This uncle, her child, was so dedicated to the welfare of his mother that he lovingly traveled 2+ hours each direction, every week to visit his mother, tending to her house and land. Upon maturity, the uncle had joined the British army, and later the Malaysian army, where he had honed his survival skills. The uncle told us stories about how he grew up hunting with sling shots, climbed trees for camouflage during military training, and even took down wild boar that were pestering his neighbors. I was so impressed by his excitement for life (always trying something new), his unrelenting dedication and admiration for his mother, and his hospitality in welcoming me and my husband to his childhood home.

Noting our interest in wanting to learn more about kampong life, he took us on a personal tour of the land. We first ventured by the chicken coup, where we literally watched chickens lay eggs in front of our eyes. We were then presented with these eggs to take home. I was shocked to feel the warmth of the eggs in my hands – couldn’t get any fresher! Then we walked to the banana tree. The uncle explained that the banana flower should be removed for the fruit to be sweeter, so he took his machete and chopped it off.  He then offered the banana flower to us, explaining that we could boil it for 30 minutes and eat the heart (which we did – it tasted like artichoke). Next we were handed start fruit that had ripened on the vine, and then proceeded to a coconut tree, where the machete was used to provide us a refreshing drink under the hot sun. Our tour was capped with a viewing of the durian fruit that was still growing on the treat – weighing down some of the branches with its sheer size.

All I can say is: what an experience! The Malaysian hospitality was truly heartwarming! Experiencing kampong life made me and my husband long for a bygone era – where communities are close-knit, life is simpler and values are pervasively instilled from birth. The uncle’s example was a true testament to me that although it may not ‘take a village to raise a child’, having a village can produce impressive results.  

Day and Overnight Trips from KL

Like most major cities, KL has some really great attractions, which can be seen in 3-4 days.  So people that are in Malaysia for longer than that have asked me if there are interesting day and overnight trips from KL. The answer in short is yes!  With great public transportation and infrastructure in Malaysia, you can see the entire country using KL as the starting-off point. Below, I have noted a few of the best options, along with information on if a car is required, how much time you need there, and must-see’s while you are there.

Day Trips

Batu Caves

o  Overview: Batu Caves is a Hindu cave-temple located about 13 KM from KL, which contains the largest Lord Murugan statue in the world. As it’s so close, it makes for a popular half-day excursion from KL. In addition to seeing the temple, you can also watch monkey swinging in the trees and do some cave exploring of your own.

o  Things to See: Definitely see the Temple Cave and Art Gallery Cave. You can also explore the surrounding nature, and drink cool-down with a fresh coconut from one of the local vendors.

o  How to Get There: You can take the KTM Komuter train to the Batu Caves stop. You can also take the LRT to Titiwangsa, and then take the U6 bus to the caves. If you take the bus, tell the bus driver of your intention so you won’t miss your stop. Alternatively you can take a 30-45 min taxi from KL.

Putra Jaya (taxi hire is recommended, but can use public transport)

o  Overview: Putra Jaya is the futuristic government hub of Malaysia. The entire city was masterminded by the ex- Prime Minster of Malaysia, Mahathir Mohamad.  Under his 22 year rule, Mahathir is credited with bringing Malaysia into the modern-age, overseeing infrastructure, educational and economic gains for the country. One piece of his plan was to develop an entirely new city which would function as the governmental nucleus of the country. This city became Putra Jaya, and houses the Prime Minister’s office, Palace of Justice (which looks like the sultan’s palace in the Disney movie Aladdin), convention center, and countless other architectural wonders. 

o  Things to See: Definitely check out the Palace of Justice, Prime Minister’s office, Putra Mosque (Pink Mosque) and Tuanku Mizan Zainal Abidin Mosque (Crystal Mosque). Putra Jaya is splendid both by day and night, and can be visited at either time. Also consider taking a river cruise to see, among others, the Prince’s Palace and surrounding landscape. Don’t forget to notice the different street light designs that decorate the wide streets.

o  How to Get There: The best thing to do in Putra Jaya is drive around to see all the buildings. You can take the Komuter train from KL Sentral to Putra Jaya (look for KILA ticket counter, as they run an express train to Putra Jaya). One you arrive, you can solicit a taxi driver for an hour to take you around. Otherwise, you can connect with the local busses, which stop at all the major locations.

§  If you take the train, one the way back you can stop at the Serdang Komuter stop and check out the Mines Shopping Mall, which is an indoor mall that was developed over an abandoned mine. Its design is to mimic Venice, and you can even take a boat ride from the train station to the mall for RM1.

 Malacca

o  Overview: Malacca is a historic port town with Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and British influences. From the 1300s to post-colonial times, Malacca was used as a strategic port along the spice route from Indonesia, as well as the silk trade from China. From the crumbling colonial church to the oldest Buddhist, Hindu and Muslim temples in Malaysia (located all on the same street), there is something for everyone to enjoy

o  Things to See: The center of Malacca is quite small and most attractions are in short walking distance, and can be divided into two distinct areas: Colonial Center and Chinatown. The top places to experience in the Colonial Center are Fort A Famosa (the remnants of a Portuguese fort) and St. Peter’s Church (a Dutch Fort from the early 1700’s that contains a small internal graveyard and all-encompassing views of the port and city). In Chinatown, definitely experience Jonker Street (Chinatown street with great antiques), and the first-in-Malaysia places of worship for Bhudism (Cheng Hoon Teng), Hinduism (Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple), and Islam (Tranquerah Mosque) – which conveliently are all located in the same street in Chinatown. In addition to these sites, Malacca is famous for its Nyona food (a blend of Chinese and Malaysian cuisines). You can go to the Visitor Center for more information on sites and food in the area.  However, as a heads up, the Visitor Center charges RM5 for a walking map. If you would like a free map instead, you can print one from this site.

o  How to Get There: The easiest way to get to Malacca is via bus.  Busses run every 30 minutes from Terminal Bersepadu Selantan (TBS) TBS is a bus station that services southern-bound journies, so no reservations are needed. You can just show up at the bus station to purchase a ticket. Once you arrive in Malacca, you can either take a taxi to city-center or choose the public buss, which only costs RM1, but takes significantly longer than the taxi. If you prefer the city bus, follow a majority of the bus passengers who will also be taking the bus.  Once you arrive in the city-center, you will see the red brick buildings Malacca is famous for and a water fountain. You can then exit the bus at this stop.

§  LRT: take Ampang line towards Sri Petaling, get off at Bandar Tasik Selation

§  KTM: take Seremban line, get off at Bandar Tasik Selation

§  ERL: take KLIA transit, get off at Bandar Tasik Selation

·      From the train station there is a bridge that directly connects to the bus terminal

 Port Dickson

o  Overview: Port Dickson is a sleeping beach town, popular with locals.  Although the beach is pretty ordinary, especially compared to Langkawi and Perhentian, it is close enough to be enjoyed in a day-trip from KL (as it’s only a 1 ½ hour bus ride from KL).

o  Things to See: The beach is a must.  In addition, check out the Cape Rachardo Lighthouse (built in the 16^th century). Check out wikitravel for more information.

o  How to Get There: You can take the KTM Komuter train to the Seremban stop. From there you can catch a bus to Port Dickson. You can also take a bus from Malacca to Port Dickson, so can combine Malacca and Port Dickson into a 2-day trip.

Overnight Trips

Cameron Highlands (car or tour group recommended)

o  Overview: The Cameron Highlands contain awe-inspiring tea and strawberry plantations located a short drive away from KL. The Cameron Highlands are a popular local destination, as an escape from the heat of KL (the highlands offer temperatures must cooler than KL) to the serenity of the relaxing countryside.

o  Things to See: It is essential to see the tea plantations where you can learn how tea is grown, walk among the tea fields and of course, enjoy a cup of tea with lunch or a snack. BOH tea plantation is the most famous in Malaysia, as their tea is sold everywhere in the country. Also check out the strawberry farms and vegetable farms, and pick up some goodies at the local farmer’s market.

o  How to Get There: You can take a bus from Puduraya Bus Station. The easiest way to get to Puduraya is via the Plaza Rakyat LRT station (located right at the stop). Alternatively, you can take a 5 minute walk from Chinatown (Pasar Seni stop on the LRT) or 10min walk Bukit Bintang. As the plantations are far apart, consider either renting a car or going in a bus tour from KL.

 Ipoh

o  Overview: Much like Malacca, Ipoh is a historic town with colonial roots dating back to the 1600’s. Compared to Malacca, Ipoh has a distinctly Chinese feel, and is famous for its’ many local eateries.  The city-center is easily walkable, and the visitor’s information center provides amazing maps and materials for free. (I enjoyed Ipoh a lot more than Malacca, as the town was less commercialized, and seemed to be a real-living city and not just a tourist trap).

o Things to See:  In addition to completing the free walking tour (maps are at the visitor center), and eating at the local eateries, consider strolling the winding streets to discover antique stores. You can even watch a local artisan create bamboo furniture (which is quite affordable). If you are adventurous, consider taking a taxi to the Three Buddhist cave temples located on the edge of town. These temples are really unique to Ipoh – finding creative ways to juxtapose temples right into the limestome caves.  One temple even includes a rather-strenous treck deep inside the cave à from which at the top you can see an impressive view of downtown Ipoh.

o  How to Get There: You can take a train from KL Sentral to Ipoh. These tickets can be purchased on the day of departure or in advance, which can be done online. Alternatively, you can take a bus from the Puduraya Bus Station (which is discussed in greater detail under Cameron Highlands). The bus is faster than the train, as long as you are traveling during off-peak times. It takes between 2-4 hours to get to Ipoh, depending on traffic.

Penang

o  Overview: Like Malacca, Penang is also a colonial town with European roots. In Malaysia when people mention Penang their mouths begin to water – people actually go on eating tours of the city. So if you venture to Penang, eating is a MUST! In addition to all that wonderful food, Penang has a well-preserved historical center, and is even considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site (an honor shared with Malacca).

o  Things to See: Other than eating, check out Chinatown, the Clock Tower and Esplanade (a seafront walkway that contains many hawker stalls, as well as exquisite colonial buildings)

o  How to Get There: Like Ipoh, you can take a train from KL Sentral. These tickets can be purchased on the day of departure or in advance, which can be done online. Alternatively, you can take a bus from the Puduraya Bus Station (which is discussed in greater detail under Cameron Highlands). The bus is faster than the train, as long as you are traveling during off-peak times. It takes between 5-7 hours to get to Penang, depending on traffic.

 Langkawi (See my separate post on Langkawi for more details)

o  Overview: Langkawi is a stunning beach resort located in the Northwest corner of Malaysia, right at the border with Thailand. Langkawi consists of a series of 99 islands, stunning aquamarine waters, white sand, and lush tropical forests.

o  Things to See: Beaches, cable car and walking bridge, hiking, 3-Island Hopping Tour

o  How to Get There:

§  A train from KL Sentral leaves every night at 11 PM (discussed in separate post). 

§  Alternatively, you can take a bus from the Puduraya Bus Station (which is discussed in greater detail under Cameron Highlands).

 Perhentian (3+ day trip is best)

o  Overview: Beach, beach and more beach! Perhentian is voted one of the best beaches in the world and locals and foreigners alike flock to its many pristine shores where you can rest in the powdery white sand sitting under the shade of majestic palm trees, trek through the jungle paths that connect secretive coves, and discover tropical coral and fish through snorkeling and scuba diving the shimmering waters.

o  Things to See: Perhentian’s one and only objective is to help you relax. There are two islands of Perhentian: Kecil and Besar. Kecil is the smaller of the two and is set-up for the backpacker and budget traveler. It also contains a small by lively nightlife.  Lodging on Kecil is pretty basic à where fans and 24 hour electricity are a luxury and air conditioning and hot water are pretty much unheard of. On the plus side, a rom can run as low as RM30 a night. Besar is the bigger of the two and boosts more luxurious accomodations (which can range from simple chalets on the beach to full-fledged resorts). Besar is also the quieter of the two, and thus, a bit more family-friendly.

o  How to Get There: You can take an overnight bus from KL that leaves from the Putra Bus Station (a.k.a. Hentian Putra) heading towards Kuala Besut. (The Putra Bus Station is close to either the PWTC stop on the LRT or the Putra station on the KTM Komuter.) From Juala Besut, walk to the jetty and take a ferry to Perhentian.  The ferry will stop at both islands.

Singapore (can see a lot in a 2 day trip)

o  Overview: Singapore needs little explanation.  As a financial hub in Southeast Asia, its many attractions lure visitors from around the world. (I will have a separate post on Singapore at a later date).

o  Things to See: Check out Little India, Chinatown and Arab Square for some local flavor. Also go to the observation deck of the Marina Sands Hotel (looks like a floating surfboard from the Marina Bay) and Sentosa Island to check out the ever-popular Universal Studios, and aquarium, among other attractions.

o  How to Get There:

§  You can take a bus from TBS bus station (See Malacca above for more information on TBS). The bus is shorter than the train, but may be slightly more expensive, depending on the type of bus taken. However, as busses leave regularly, you usually do not need to reserve in advance, unless you are going over a holiday weekend or leaving on a Friday night.

§  Alternatively, you can take an overnight train from KL Sentral.  The train departs at 11:30PM.  Tickets can be purchased at the ticket counter in KL Sentral.  However, since this is a popular option, consider purchasing tickets in advance, which can be done online.

§  As a note, if you are purchasing transportation in Singapore, the prices will be significantly higher than Malaysia (as Singapore would charge the same price in Singapore Dollars, as it would be in Malaysian Ringgit (for example, the train price would be RM50 if purchased in Malaysia and SGD50 if purchased in Singapore – for the same train ride)). Therefore, it is strongly encouraged to purchase a round-trip while you are in Malaysia, to avoid the increased cost in Singapore.

Bathroom Sign Modesty

So most people know that Malaysia is a Muslim-majority country… however, as the population of Malaysia is comprised of people from many different backgrounds, including large Chinese and Indian populations (who can be Muslim, but can also be Buddhist, Hindu, Christian, etc.), there is a diversity of values, customs and practices here. While many Malaysia women dress modestly, wearing long flowing skirts or dresses with matching hijabs (or head coverings), some Malaysians and many Chinese and Indians wear western clothes. As such, there is not enforcement to dress ‘modestly’, and through the free market people here can choose what they want to wear, how much they want to show (or not show), etc.

With that said, Malaysia sometimes finds funny ways to insert modesty into places that you wouldn’t even think about. One pretty hysterical example of this was ‘unveiled’ to me yesterday when I was at a meeting in the Takaful Malaysia building near Pasar Seni.  As I was walking towards the elevator on my way to the meeting, I saw a Malaysian-style version of the female figure next to a conventional male figure, connotation the elevator was around the corner.

In seeing this I stopped in my tracks and stared. I had never really thought about it before.  If you examine a traditional female figure used on bathroom signs and you think about it, the woman does appear to have a pretty short dress on, bear arms, and of course (in an Islamic view) is showing her hair.  I guess someone in Malaysia took it upon themselves to change this, in order to provide a modest environment for all.

So I guess Malaysia’s modified version solves these problems.  At a minimum, it put a smile on my face à only in Malaysia.

Searching for Grains in a Sea of Wheat

Eating healthy does not mean just staying away from sugar and processed food.  Serious health-enthusiasts also require a strict adherence to limiting carbs to whole grains. So naturally, an entire whole grain market sprung up in America to meet this demand: whole wheat pasta, whole wheat bread, whole wheat cereals… the list can go on and on.  It’s hard to even imagine life before the whole grain crazy.  And then I moved to KL, and all whole-grain-hell broke loose.

Not only are most foods here either fried, covered in coconut milk, or fried and covered in coconut milk, but finding whole grain carbs in KL can be likened to finding a needle in a haystack, or more familiar to here – finding a parking spot at the mall on a Saturday afternoon.

For the first month, I literally thought the only bread company in Malaysia was Gardenia. Now don’t get me wrong – I quite like their bread. Their wheat bread is soft, tasty and toasts really well – makes great grilled cheeses and stays fresh for about 5 days without refrigeration. However, it’s just ‘wheat’ and not ‘100% whole wheat’ – and anyone that is a health nut understands that what seems insignificant really makes the difference between the bread being healthy or not.

As an aside, Gardenia’s Butterscotch bread is to-die for!!! It tastes like French toast or crème brulee, and is best toasted. Of course, it’s not healthy at all, but it must be tried if you are in KL – at least once. But be warned, if it’s your first time, you just may eat half the bag in one sitting – I’m definitely guilty of this (shamefully guilty).

Anyway, I slowly discovered that if you shop for bread in the mall, you have better luck of finding whole wheat bread.  Places such as Bread Talk and The Loaf offer specialty breads, with some of their selections containing whole grains, nuts, oats, etc. However, my problem with these places is although their breads are totally divine, they are extremely expensive: RM7+ - whereas Gardenia is a little over RM3. So is it really worth a 100% mark-up just to get some whole grains? On a daily basis, I say no.

So I gave up, being content with eating my Gardenia – well, that was until today.  When I was walking in Kerinchi LRT around lunch I saw this interesting sign in a small convenience store. It was advertising Good Whole wheat.   Upon closer inspection the bread had 100% brown sugar – which I’m not even sure why is needed in the bread…  But that aside, it looked a little better than Gardenia wheat bread.  It had whole grains and seed-like goodness baked inside.  Now it doesn’t say 100% whole wheat on the ingredients (but it does say whole wheat as the number 1 ingredient). The best part, it’s only RM3.50!!! So while it’s not the Holy Grail of whole wheat bread, it’s getting closer to where I want to be à cheap and healthy.

If you know of other cheap and healthy alternatives to the bread I found definitely let me know. Either way, I’ll continue my scour and let you know if I find anything else.

Not All Expats are Rich – Why ‘Good’ Stereotypes can also be Bad

Ok so I’m a white ‘expat’ – this much is true; and I live in a ‘premium’ part of town, so of course I must be rich, get to travel all over the world, can afford RM15 drinks at Starbucks and RM30 meal at Chilis, have a doorman and maid, and never lift a finger.  Life must be good for all expats, without exceptions.

After moving over here, it really hit me that ‘white people’ do have it good. Much of the rest of the world LOVES white people; loves their music, food and clothes; and generally (at least outwardly) thinks highly of white people, even if they harbour different internal views. They think all while people are smart, put white people in their advertising to show their product is ‘global’ and ‘cool’, and hire whites to take top positions in many local and national businesses.  For me, why wouldn’t I want people to think I’m rich, smart and successful? 

Does this stereotype mean that I deserve to be overcharged on everything from taxies to groceries at the night markets, and pretty much anything that has a subjective price (including restaurants and shopping)?

Newflash – this notion is a total farce! Not ALL white people/expats ‘have it all’. Some expats like myself work at normal Malaysian companies that pay normal Malaysian rates. My husband and I have to budget just like other Malays: going out of our way to choose cheaper options when shopping (which can entail traveling out of our area just to buy fruit and vegetables, cooking at home more than eating out, buying in bulk, and buying items only when they are on sale). And yes we live in a nice area, but our apartment is over 30 years old and we don’t have a car. (Yes, we are one of the few – very few- people in KL who actually walk and take transportation… I know mindboggling.) In fact I calculated it out and having a car will cost almost RM 1,000 per month (including car payment, gas, tolls and parking) – and this is for a Malaysian car – not an imported one. Not having a car is how we can afford to live in a nice area; it’s not because we are loaded.  

As a matter of fact, we haven’t eaten at Chilis or ordered a drink at Starbucks since we moved here – we can’t afford it.  We haven’t even shopped in a mall yes, not counting Carrefour (as it’s a discount grocery store). We even walk 25-30 minutes just to avoid the cab fare. So in sum, we can’t afford to be treated like expats – we just can’t. Please stop overcharging me just because I ‘talk like an American’ and have light skin.

The second thing that bothers me about this notion is that it saddens me to come to another country and see the ‘white-image’ being used to market products.  I mean just look at the example of an advertisement for a University I saw in the Masjid Jamek LRT station (on the left). Why does having a white person on the package or add connote quality, desirability, etc.?  I believe people should be proud of who they are, their cultures, traditions and values, and celebrate that through their products and adds.  If I’m Malaysian, why do I want to go to a college just because a white person goes there (at least that’s what the advertisement suggests) or use a toothpaste that a white person uses? I LOVE it when I see the real Malaysian culture being displayed – women wearing beautiful flowing baju kurungs and batik skirts, men wearing traditional sarangs.  Please Malaysia, don’t lose this – it’s so beautiful and something to cherish.

Anyway, I know I’m ranting a bit, but it’s just weird to be treated this way – I never expected it. I do acknowledge that it could be much worse, and know it’s better to have positive stereotypes than negative ones.  However, I hope that at least some people reading this realise that being ‘white’ isn’t everything.  

All Aboard the Langkawi Express

A weekend trip from KL to Langkawi island is not only easy and affordable, but a definite must for anyone who likes beaches, relaxation, good food, and fun.

Langkawi is a collection of around 99 islands off the Northwest coast of Malaysia (right on the border between Malaysia and Thailand). On top of powdery soft white sand beaches and clear aquamarine water, Langkawi has stunning mountains – which make for great hiking and waterfalls.

Getting There

There are three options to consider when determining how to get from KL to Langkawi: plane, bus and train.

Plane: AirAsia is the best bet, and routinely offers promotional fares to Langkawi. However, if you don’t book well ahead, the price is usually 3-4 times the price of the bus or train, so it’s by far the most expensive option. With that said, it is also the fastest, with a flight only taking about 45 minutes from KL.  As Langkawi has an airport, this also saves you from the less-than-comfortable ferry ride to mainland Malaysia.

Bus and Train: There are many busses, and one train (the Langkawi Express) that takes you from KL to Langkawi. Both the bus and the train can drop you off at one of two locations: either Alor Setar or Kuala Perlis (as both towns have ferries to Langkawi). Alor Setar is closer to KL, but the ferry ride is longer and more expensive. Kuala Perlis is right at the border with Thailand (so farther from KL), but the ferry ride is shorter (1 ½ hours).

From what I researched, the bus takes between 7-8 hours. There is a bathroom on the bus, and most busses provide a simple dinner or breakfast (usually a sandwich and drink). However, check with each individual bus, and bring your own food if necessary. The bus is nice in that it drops you directly at the jetty, so there is no need to take a taxi. 

The train leaves from KL Sentral around 10PM (if I can remember) and the ride takes around 10 hours. There are three levels of seating choices – upright seats, personal beds, or a private room (comes with 2 beds).  The upright seats are the cheapest of course, but are by far the most uncomfortable (which I will discuss in greater detail in my blog on Singapore). I think the seats are RM 35. For an overnight journey, I would highly recommend that you avoid this option, unless you purposely want to torture yourself with no sleep. The sleeping car has bunk beds, with the upper bunks being slightly cheaper than the bottom bunks.  If I remember correctly, the beds are around RM 45 for the upper bunk and RM 50 for the bottom bunk – only slightly cheaper than the chairs. I would recommend the sleeper car, as this will be your bed for the night. The third option, a private compartment, is of course the best option, but double the price of a bunk.  It’s around RM 100 per person, so about RM200 for the room.  For this, you get your own door, and may even get your own bathroom – which would be a plus, plus your own sink and large window. As a note, don’t worry about missing your stop because the train conductors come around yelling loudly the stops as they come.  They also turn on the lights, as most people get off at Kuala Perlis (if you choose Alor Setar it will be an earlier stop, and the lights do not go on, so set your alarm to make sure you don’t miss it). Once you arrive, the train station is about a RM25 ride to the jetty.  I would suggest talking to others getting off the train so you can share a taxi ride – since pretty much everyone on the train is heading to Langkawi anyway.

I decided to take the night train so I could sleep on the train Friday night and Sunday night – only requiring one night of hotel in Langkawi for 2 days on the island.  As such, I upgraded to the sleeper car, which allowed my husband and I to each have our own bed (less than RM50 each way per person). I definitely liked my choice, as with a bed, I was able to get a better sleep than on a bus. Plus, you get your own private curtain so you can change into more comfortable pyjamas, and the sheets are changed after every use, so it felt clean. As a note, it’s important to bring ear plugs, as some people on the train do not understand the concept of not making noise at night. Also, there are not any good food options on the train (rumour has it that there is a snack car with egg and sardine sandwiches) so it’s best to bring some snacks and drinks in case you get hungry on your journey. One HUGE DOWNSIDE is that the bathrooms are pretty much unusable.  Many people ‘miss’ when they use the toilet in the train, so walking into it pretty much feels like walking into a port-o-potty. So be advised, just don’t drink anything before you go onto the train, and try not to use the bathroom until you reach the jetty.

At the jetty: Once you arrive immediately go to buy ferry tickets, as the tickets are timed, and sell out fast on weekends and holidays.  When I was there, we had to wait 1 ½ hours for the next ferry because the time we wanted was already sold out (seats are assigned). After you purchase tickets, you can go across the street to get food at one of the many hawker stalls.  We had roti cani (flaky bread in the shape of a pancake served with curry sauce to dip) with teh tarik (sweetened milk tea –Malaysian specialty). My husband had mee goring (like lo mien or stir-fried noodles). There is also a KFC for those with more Western palates.

The ferry is not anything you would picture when you think of vacation, and is the least pleasant part of Langkawi.  There is no outer deck to feel the ocean breeze, and in some of the boats there are only tiny porthole windows that are so high on the wall and so far between that you can barely see out of them.  Additionally, on one of the ferries we took there were small coach roaches crawling up the walls.  Yes, it was pretty much disgusting!  In addition, if you are unlucky enough to get seats assigned in the bottom hull of the ship (which happened to me both ways) their air feels stifling until the boat starts moving (which can take up to 30 minutes while passengers are loaded) and it take forever to exit the ship, because hundreds of people are lined up to go out of one, and only one door (both the upstairs and downstairs passengers).  Honestly, I don’t know who designed these ships…. (In the first boat, to be honest, the windows were large and the air conditioning was fine – so these complaints only relate to my journey back).

Where to Stay

We decided to go to Langkawi at last minute. In looking online everything cheap was booked, and all that was left was expensive options. I read on blogs that you can arrive in Langkawi and walk from hotel to hotel to find a place at much better rates that those online, so we decided to take a chance and do it that way. What a great idea!

Don’t stay in Kuah because there are not any beaches there are you are far from all the attractions (unless the only thing you want to do is shop, then Kuah is fine). We arrived in Langkawi and took a taxi to Pantai Chenang (a.k.a. Chenang Beach).  There are so many options there.  We literally walked from place to place and ended up finding a motel (ABC Motel) right on the beach for RM100! Super-good deal! Plus, there was a travel agent right across the street that was selling different tours for great prices – including Island Hopping Tour which is a must (discussed below).

Lesson learned – book ahead if you really want to stay at a particular place or if it’s a holiday weekend (like Chinese New Year) and you know it will be full.  Otherwise, try your luck and you can definitely get a good deal.

Must-See Attractions

My favourite thing was the Island Hopping Tour which was over $100 USD online, but only RM 25 if you buy it in Langkawi.  This tour really made me feel like I was on holiday. The eagle feeding was something I’ve never seen before, and we even got to ride on a paddle boat in the fresh water lake on one of the islands.  (See attached pictures).  Totally worth the money and a MUST do!

The other must do attraction is the cable car.  My husband loved it way more than I did, because I’m scared of heights. The view was so amazing, and you really get to appreciate how great Langkawi is from up that high.  It’s totally worth the money as you get to walk on the highest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world and even can see Thailand on a clear day. After you get back onto lower ground, look out for the yummy ice cream vendor that is near the entrance.  Their prices were really good and the ice cream was delicious. The cable car is located in the Oriental Village.  There really isn’t anything special to see here, so again, unless you really want to shop, don’t waste your time in the shops and head back to the beach.

The Seven Wells waterfall is also really nice. We actually did the 45 minute hike up to the top, where we found that the top waterfall had already dried up (hike was still nice, but ask people coming down if the waterfall is active before going, unless you just want a hike).  However the lower falls were still running so it was really cooling to put our feet in the water and watch other swim (we would have to if we had more time).  This is a great place to relax mid-day and have a picnic (local restaurants are at the entrance).  Also, do take both hikes (the short and long) as the short shows you the base of the falls and the long takes you up the falls.

The beach is a must do in the morning or evening – during the day the sand burns your feet and is only tolerable for the most avid beachgoer. I read online that some people complain about the jellyfish there. But, when I was there in mid-February there were not any jellyfish to be found (so I guess it’s seasonal).

Eating

We had a hard time finding anything open for breakfast. It seems that everyone sleeps in late there. So if you need to be up early (like for the 9AM Island Hopping Tour) then don’t waste your time roaming around. Instead, go to the restaurant right next to the ABC motel, as it was the only one open.

For lunch and dinner just walk up and down Jalan Pantai Chenang. There you will find everything from western to Indian and Malay.  We found this great place at the end of the street (on the right-hand side if the beach is on your left) that served fresh seafood. I ordered a recently caught tuna fish that was grilled over a fire.  It was simply to die for an only RM 3!  What a deal.

If You Have the Money

You can also take ferries from Langkawi to the popular Thailand islands such as Phi Phi and Phuket (passport permitting). So if you have the time and money, consider adding that to your journey as the ferries are all less than RM 200 and take you direct.

Things You Can Miss

Although I haven’t been there myself, a friend told me that the volcanic black sand beaches on the northern tip of the island are definitely not worth the trek. Apparently, the beach is covered in trash, debris and driftwood.  As it’s not maintained, and it’s well out of the way from all other attractions, I would skip it unless you are in the area.

As usual, if you have any questions on heading to Langkawi, send me a comment and I can try my best to answer your questions.